Where and when to stay on a Kenya safari
Serving as the setting for both “Out of Africa” and “Born Free”, Kenya is one of East Africa’s most iconic destinations. It’s home to large swathes of acacia-dotted savannah and flamingo-filled lakes, as well as an idyllic Indian Ocean coastline dotted with beach resorts. Kenya’s national parks and wildlife reserves provide habitat for a staggering number of wildlife species, as well as a migratory birdlife that’s second to none.
Kenya boasts an outstanding choice of luxury lodges and camps that provide a comfortable base for an action-packed safari. You can kick back beside a sparkling swimming pool during the heat of the day and watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand from the comfort of your private deck. Whether you want to photograph herds of elephants backed by the peak of Mount Kilimanjaro, experience community-based tourism in Laikipia or birdwatch in the Samburu National Reserve, here’s our insider guide on where and when to stay on a Kenya safari.
Nairobi
Serving as the capital of Kenya, Nairobi is an essential stop for most travellers visiting the country’s wildlife reserves. It’s home to the Karen Blixen Museum and a renowned elephant orphanage operated by the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, not to mention the Nairobi National Park where you can spot endangered black rhinos, giraffes and lions without even having to leave the city. Add to that some of the country’s best restaurants, curio markets and nightlife venues, Nairobi is a city not to be missed.
Occupying a plantation-style lodge set on 10 scenic acres, this colonial-style boutique hotel is conveniently located near the Karen Blixen Museum, the Giraffe Centre and Nairobi National Park. It’s set in the leafy suburb of Karen overlooking the Ngong Hills, with its elegant rooms styled on the days when Hemingway was exploring East Africa. At the end of a busy day’s exploration, you can retreat to the outdoor pool or take advantage of the spa, steam room and sauna.
Giraffe Manor
Owned and operated by The Safari Collection, this iconic boutique hotel nestles within a 140-acre forest in the Nairobi suburb of Langata. It features lush gardens, sunny terraces and elegant interiors that hark back to the 1930s when safari travellers first began flocking to Kenya. The biggest attraction here is the herd of Rothschild’s giraffe who are renowned for sauntering through the hotel’s grounds and poking their long necks into the windows for a treat.
Maasai Mara National Reserve
Kenya’s most popular wildlife-viewing destination is undoubtedly the Maasai Mara National Reserve, which provides a stunning backdrop for the Great Wildebeest Migration. Rather than being a government-run park, it’s managed as a collaborative initiative between local councils and Maasai tribal communities who harness progressive conservation measures. Not only does the reserve offer exceptional encounters with a diversity of wildlife but cultural experiences with the red-robed Maasai tribe. A highlight of visiting the Maasai Mara National Reserve centres around the mighty Mara River where huge herds of wildebeest and zebras can be seen making the precarious crossing during the migration season.
Mara Bushtops
Boasting an incredible hilltop location bordering the Maasai Mara National Reserve, this ultra-luxurious safari camp has been hailed as one of the best in Kenya. It features just 12 spacious tents, a sparkling swimming pool and an on-site spa, not to mention a private salt lick that’s watched over by a 100-square-metre observation deck. You can end your days dining on gourmet fare crafted by some of East Africa’s top chefs, accompanied by a bottle from Mara Bushtops’ well-stocked wine cellar.
Situated at the confluence of the Sand and Keekerok Rivers, this high-end tented safari camp combines comfort with understated luxury. It’s positioned in the wildlife-rich southern corner of the Maasai Mara and is an idyllic setting for witnessing the annual Great Wildebeest Migration. Clawfoot baths and private plunge pools come as standard in the elegantly-designed tents while sundowners around the campfire and dinner served under the stars are experiences not to be missed.
&Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp
Set where the Sabaringo River meets the sweeping plains, this luxurious tented safari camp is backed by the rugged Oloololo Escarpment. It lies on a private concession that has been leased from Masai landlords, ensuring an exclusive wildlife-spotting experience away from the crowds. Outstanding views are on offer from each of the split-level safari tents, with wildlife often seen grazing right outside your front door.
&Beyond Bateleur Camp
Nestled at the base of the Oloololo Escarpment, this romantic camp harks back to the early days of safari tourism in the 1920s. It’s situated just a stone’s throw from where the final scene in “Out of Africa” was filmed, with touches of vintage safari elegance throughout its spaces. Handcrafted artefacts, antique trunks and framed maps decorate the camp while the views across the Maasai Mara have to be seen to be believed.
Backed by the Olderikesi Hills, this vintage-style villa borders both the Masai Mara National Reserve and the Serengeti National Park in neighbouring Tanzania. It was constructed by hand using locally-sourced and environmentally-friendly materials, with a large living room, elegant dining spaces and a magnificent viewing deck. There are five en-suite bathrooms for groups of friends or families travelling together, not to mention a 25-metre lap pool and on-site masseuse.
Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp
Positioned on a private 6,000-acre conservancy alongside the Maasai Mara National Reserve, this 10-tent safari camp offers distant views of the Serengeti plains in neighbouring Tanzania. There are two main mess tents where you can enjoy fine dining cuisine, relax with a good book or mingle with other guests, as well as a safari bath/shower for a once-in-a-lifetime bathing experience.
Saruni Wild
Bordering both the Lemek Conservancy and the Mara North Conservancy, this elegantly designed tented camp is on the doorstep of a migration hotspot. Private verandas mean you’ll never miss a moment of the wildlife-viewing action, with just three tents ensuring the most exclusive experience possible. Spend your days game driving and wildlife watching with some of Kenya’s most highly-trained guides before evenings being entertained by local Maasai warriors.
Saruni Mara
Situated in the exclusive Mara North Conservancy, this small property is the only boutique lodge in the Mara. It comprises five elegantly designed cottages and a private family villa, each of which is decorated with colonial antiques, Persian carpets and African artworks. Gourmet meals are served in a communal dining area and served by Maasai tribespeople who are more than happy to share their unique culture with guests.
Angama Mara Tented Camp
Perched high on the rim of the Great Rift Valley, this stunning tented camp boasts incredible views across the Mara Triangle. It makes the most of its views with wall-to-wall glass fronts and private decks at each of the 15 safari suites, as well as featuring a swimming pool, fitness centre and art studio. End your day with meals served in the breathtaking dining area that was inspired by Nairobi’s Muthaiga Club from the film “Out of Africa”.
Amboseli & the Chyulu Hills
Famed for its iconic views of Mount Kilimanjaro, Amboseli National Park is also one of the best places to see free-ranging elephants in East Africa. It encompasses almost 400 square kilometres in Kenya’s south, with its sparse vegetation making it ideal for spotting the resident giraffes, zebras and cheetahs. Adjacent lies the rugged wilderness of Chyulu Hills National Park, a landscape of ancient volcanic cones and craters that’s home to buffalo, antelope, elephants and the bird-filled shores of Lake Jipe.
Campi ya Kanzi
The only luxury safari lodge in the Chyulu Hills, this award-winning boutique ecolodge is operated as a partnership with the local community. It features just a handful of tented suites and cottages for an intimate experience, with private verandas offering stunning views across the surrounding forest.
Samburu National Reserve
Sprawling along the banks of the Ewaso Ng'iro River, the Samburu National Reserve lies in the very heart of Kenya. It encompasses lush forests and palm groves that are home to Grevy’s zebra, cheetah, and leopard, as well as large numbers of Grant’s gazelle, hippos and Nile crocodiles. A world away from the crowds at some of Kenya’s more popular reserve, it’s revered for its serenity and authentic encounters with the local Samburu tribal people.
Sasaab
Featuring nine Moroccan-style rooms, this luxury tented camp is owned and operated by The Safari Collection. It’s close to the Buffalo Springs and Samburu National Reserves in Kenya’s Northern Frontier District and is a stunning base for spotting the “Samburu Special Five” - Beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Gerenuk antelope and Somali ostrich. There are remarkable views across the Laikipia Plateau from the spacious veranda while elephants are often seen bathing in the adjacent river.
Saruni Rhino
Located in the Sera Community Conservancy, this unique safari camp offers the first rhino-tracking experience in East Africa. This incredible walking safari allows guests to actively contribute to the protection of this iconic species while staying in one of three uniquely designed bandas (stone cottages).
Saruni Samburu
Featuring six luxury villas, this eco-chic property offers spectacular views over Kenya’s Northern Frontier District and Mount Kenya. You can soak up the panoramas from the lounge area, relax in one of the two infinity pools and spa, then be treated to Italian-inspired gourmet cuisine in the relaxed dining space. Saruni Samburu is the only lodge in the Kalama Conservancy, which boasts more than 200,000 acres of unspoiled wilderness bordering the Samburu National Reserve.
Laikipia Plateau
Operated as a collaboration between local ranchers and tribal communities, the Laikipia Plateau stretches from the Great Rift Valley to the foothills of Mount Kenya. It encompasses open grasslands, rocky kopjes and snaking rivers that offer visitors exclusive wildlife-viewing experiences. Large numbers of elephants, Grevy's zebra, rhino and oryx call Laikipia “home” and it’s one of the few places in Kenya where you can see Jackson's hartebeest in the wild. Aside from daily game drives and walking safaris, this community tourism initiative also allows for horseback riding and camel safaris.
Ol Lentinlle
Opened in 2007, Ol Lentille is a poster child for what sustainable tourism and community partnership can look like. If features just four villas that can accommodate up to 14 adults, with 40,000 acres of pristine wilderness at your doorstep. Samburu and Maasai warriors are your guides at this pioneering lodge, which offers a range of activities (aside from game driving) plus an infinity pool and on-site spa.
Sirikoi
Resembling an eco-chic African home, this beautiful lodge is perfectly positioned along the spring-fed Sirikoi stream and offers a comfortable yet unpretentious stay. Several cottages and safari tents scatter the grounds while the main lodge is home to three en-suite bedrooms that lead to a central dining and living area. When you’re not out wildlife spotting, you can cool off in the infinity pool, unwind with a massage or explore the organic vegetable garden that’s used to source fresh produce for meals.
Solio Lodge
Nestled within the 45,000-acre Solio Game Reserve, this intimate and luxurious lodge lies tucked between the peak of Mount Kenya and the slopes of the Aberdare Mountains. The reserve is recognised as the most successful private rhino breeding reserve in Kenya and encounters with these magnificent creatures are a highlight of any visit. There are just five contemporary cottages with private decks and large en-suite bathrooms, as well as open fires where you can relax on cooler evenings.
Unlike some parts of East Africa that experience a distinct wet and dry season, Kenya’s weather can roughly be divided into four different seasons. A cool, dry season extends from June to October and is followed by a short-wet period from October to December. January through to mid-March is marked by hot and dry weather before relief comes with a peak rainy season from mid-March to May.
The best time to visit the country for a safari is generally considered the cool, dry season from June through to October. Not only does the sparse foliage make it easier to spot wildlife but the animals tend to gather around permanent waterholes and rivers as other water sources dry out. The absence of rain also means that there’s a significant reduction in mosquito numbers, although you can expect some chilly temperatures at night and in the early mornings, particularly in the highland areas.
This period is also an ideal time to visit if you want to experience the Great Wildebeest Migration, with the herds crossing over from the Serengeti into the Maasai Mara around July/August and staying until they begin the long journey south again in October. But keep in mind that this brings bigger crowds and higher accommodation rates, particularly during the Northern Hemisphere summer holidays of July and August.
If you want to avoid the crowds, you may want to consider visiting during the “short rains” from October through to December. It sees short showers (usually in the afternoon or evening), so you can easily plan your game drives and activities around them. The rainfall turns the landscapes a lush green and many species take advantage of this abundance to give birth to their young. Migratory bird species also arrive from near and far, making this a stunning time to visit Kenya’s lakes. With fewer crowds, the lodge rates may also reduce for those wanting to grab a safari deal.
January through to mid-March sees hot and dry conditions that are great for travelers wanting a rain-free safari. Temperatures can soar during the middle of the day when it’s best to retreat to your lodge pool or indulge in an afternoon siesta. This is an ideal time to visit if you want a beach and bush safari, combining a few days in Kenya’s national parks with time spent relaxing in one of its Indian Ocean beach resorts.
From mid-March to May sees the peak wet season arrive, bringing with it heavy downpours that can hamper wildlife-watching activities. High humidity and muggy conditions make it an unpleasant time to travel in parts of the country while some lodges and camps may close down altogether for the season. Travelers who opt to visit during this season should be flexible with their travel plans and check with a safari expert about the feasibility of visiting beforehand.
Vencha Travel is proudly based in Northern Tanzania and offers bespoke safari adventures at all of the properties listed above. We can craft unique and customized itineraries that include all accommodations, meals, and activities at your preferred property, plus ground transportation and/or domestic flights. Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with one of our safari experts and start planning an unforgettable adventure in East Africa today.
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